Caring for children's hair is different from caring for adult hair. While the growth cycle may be the same, it is important to ensure that the onset of hair growth is not disrupted with harsh hair care products.Children tend to absorb nourishment and or toxins much easier than adults, through their scalp.
As well as having sensitive scalps, a child's hair strand is finer and rounder. This is associated with the absence of a medulla. The medulla is the central core of the hair that develops as we get older and is associated with hair becoming coarser. In addition to the absence of a medulla, Sebum (the hairs natural protective oil) replenishes the average adult hair shaft every two or three days. Whereas in children, it takes much longer.
Adult hair care products do not take into account these structural and chemical differences. That is why it is very important to use delicate and sensitive products uniquely created for children.
When learning how to style your child’s hair, look at their curl pattern. Any curl pattern can achieve most styles, the difference is in the technique.
When learning how to care for your child’s hair, it is important to look at your child’s hair porosity, texture,density and elasticity rather than curl pattern.
Do they have fine, medium or coarse texture or a combination?
Do they have high, normal or low porosity?
Is their hair thin, medium or thick density?
Does their hair stretch or break?
Texture is something that is talked about a lot when it comes to curly hair care. It relates to the individual strand diameter of hair. Texture can be divided into three categories; fine, medium or coarse.
To determine hair texture: hold a single strand up to the light.
Fine hair needs help not being weighed down, and fine hair loves protein. You want products that are water-based (look for water high on the ingredients list).
Coarse hair needs moisture. Coarse hair loves humectants and emollients. Avoid using too much protein (appears in ingredients lists as keratin, silk amino acids, collagen, wheat and soy based ingredients, hydrolyzed ingredients).
Normal hair needs balance.Undamaged hair with a medium texture can generally support products with a wide range of ingredients.
Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture There are three levels of porosity: LOW, MEDIUM (normal) and HIGH.
Grab a strand of hair and drop it into a glass of water. If the strand looks like it is floating on top of the water, then your child’s hair is of low porosity. If the hair strand is somewhere in the middle, then your child’s hair is of normal porosity. If however, the hair strands sinks to the bottom, then your child’s hair is highly porous.
Your child’s cuticle on the hair shaft is tightly bound with overlapping scales that lay flat. This makes the hair more resistant to water and moisture. This type of hair is more prone to product build up as the product applied usually just sits on the hair shaft rather than being absorbed.
Low porosity hair requires a moisturiser rich in emollients such as jojoba oil or coconut oil. It also benefits from humectant products such as honey, which attract and hold moisture that won’t sit on your child’s hair leaving it oily or greasy.
When applying products, make sure the hair is damp, as the hair needs all the moisture it can get.
Your child’s cuticle on the hair shaft is loosely compacted which allows moisture to pass through the shaft and into the cortex but does prevent too much from escaping. This type of hair is low maintenance. To keep the hair at its optimum health, use products with healthier ingredients, regular conditioning and moisturising.
High porosity hair strands are found to have gaps which will allow too much moisture into the hair shaft. This results in hair prone to frizz and tangling especially in humid weather. This can be an inherent property of the hair or as a direct result of either environmental factors, or overuse of heat and/or chemical processes.
Simply by bathing or swimming can create more damage and breakage due to the sheer amount of moisture the hair can absorb.
To help seal the highly porous hair strands, be sure to use leave-in conditioners, moisturises and oils. Layering these products can help fill in the gaps and further protect your child’s hair from losing too much moisture.
Elasticity is the hair's ability to stretch and return to its normal state without breaking. Elasticity determines the strength of the hair's side bonds that hold the fibres in place.If you take a single strand of hair, stretch it and then it bounces back to its original state without buckling or breaking, then your hair has good elasticity. If the hair snaps, then you have poor elasticity. Hair with poor elasticity needs moisture and/or protein.
We selected specific ingredients with specific properties for curly hair.
We love and use film forming humectants. They are moisturisers par excellence!
Film-forming humectants form a film over your hair that helps your hair resist dehydration. These are large, complex molecules which dry to form a clear, flexible film over your hair. Water is lost slowly from the hair through the humectant film over the course of the day or between washes. They not only trap water in themselves, they also trap water in and around the curls.The film forming humectants actively grab water and they keep a firm grip on it.
For example: If a simple humectant like 'glycerin' dries quickly like lycra swimmers, then a film-forming humectant dries slowly like a very thick, plush bath towel.
Film forming humectants are often what your hair is needing when it seems dry, even though you use oil or lots of conditioners and leave-in conditioners.
Where are film-forming humectants found?
Plants are experts at being able to store and move water. These particular plants all have a gel-like quality, they tend to be slippery and dry clear and smooth.
Hydrolyzed means that the compound has been split into smaller units through the process of of hydrolysis. Due to the low molecular weight of the hydrolysed protein, it can be easily absorbed by the hair shaft helping your hair maintain more moisture and help slow water loss from the hair over the day.
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein: Water soluble protein derived from soy. Strengthens and mends hair fiber. Increases the ability for hair to hold moisture. Adds shine and smoothes hair.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: Water soluble protein derived from wheat, it penetrates the cortex of each strand. It strengthens and moisturises hair, increases it’s ability to receive and maintain moisture.
Hydrolyzed proteins will stay with your hair even after they were rinsed-out.
What products have film-forming humectants?
Can you use film-forming humectants with the conditioning oil?
Most definitely! They compliment each other. Oils act as sealants on wet hair to give you a waterproof barrier, preventing water from escaping from your hair. However, oils can be oily whereas film-forming humectants are more luscious and give you a water-soluble and water-attracting layer. If you use both, you increase the likelihood that your hair will stay hydrated longer.
For example : You could use the moisturising mousse (that has film-forming humectants) over or under a layer of conditioning oil for sealing.
REF: Based on Science
We want you to know how curly hair should feel when hydrated as opposed to how it feels when "just" conditioned.
The Curly Girl method was developed by Lorraine Massey and introduced in her book Curly Girl: The Handbook .There are 3 basics rules to following this method:
No sulphates: Sulphates are present in most of today’s shampoos. The sulphates in our shampoos are the same sulphates being used to wash our clothes and our dishes. They strip the hair of its natural oils. They are in most shampoos to remove the buildup in our hair caused by silicones.
No silicones: Silicones are present in most of today’s conditioners and a lot of styling products. Silicones make our hair feel soft and moisturised by coating the strands but ultimately they block out any real moisture which leads to hair being dry. As they are not water soluble, they tend to build up on the scalp and hair and need help sulphates to remove them.
Co-Wash: The 'co' stands for conditioner. So co-washing refers to washing your hair with conditioner only. Co-washing is great for keeping your curls moisturised without stripping the natural oils.
To help transition to co washing using Curl care, please follow these simple steps.
Curly hair is as unique as the individual. Experiment with how frequently you need to cleanse your hair. In general, once-a-month or twice-a-month cleanse will cure dullness without drying. If your hair still feels weighed down after bi-weekly cleansing, alternate as needed between co-washing and cleansing. This should generate the benefits of co-washing but with more volume.